5/29/2020 Flight Rising Coliseum Guide
Ultimate Flooded City Coliseum Lv99 Guide: I want to. Nier: Automata Edition. By ThatRandomGuy. Once Medium flyer is dead go for taunt again and use rising attack to kill groups of Small Flyers. When wave is almost clear begin charging M Shield to charge 3 for next wave boss. Can end wave safely in overclock.
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Duke's Leveling Guide by Culexheader image courtesybanner images courtesyMost Recent EditsAugust 19 2017: Blooming Grove added.May 5 2017: Training Fields II, Arena didn't change I guess? Added the non-finishing battle bug, and updated the mage end-stat-total image.February 5 2017: Volcanic Vents; Arena NOT fixed yet.October 26 2016: Redrock Cove, Waterway boost, cat golems in Scorched Forest.June 14 2016: Updated Cloud Dancer.LinksSkip to section:Skip to section:, based on Sylvandyr's workby. The coliseum is a dark, dirty place, and who wants to spend untold hours slaving away for nothing amazing? I'm here to teach you how to train your dragons!This guide features, at its essence, a way to train your dragons with the least amount of fuss, in a very way. This has nothing to do with role-playing, just getting the morass of leveling down to the fastest, simplest method. This boils down to “glass cannons.” While this guide does recommend three stat builds, you don't need to pick exactly what you want until nearly the end, so don't worry about it.
What's wrong with mages?The coliseum system in Flight Rising is very unbalanced at the moment. Physical fighters can use Eliminate to do extreme damage without using up breath! When it's used to finish off an enemy, your expended breath is refunded, letting you use Eliminate again, and again, and again. Meanwhile, mages do use up breath when they attack, so they have to rebuild it continually, wasting turns and letting the enemies hit back in those turns. They also have to deal with elemental resistances (and weaknesses, true), where your prize dragon may only do half damage against several enemies in a zone. Healers?If you're using glass cannons, you simply won't be hit once you get an Ambush or two on your team. Fully kitted out dragons?
You'll almost never get defeated, excepting a very unlucky miss streak! Without taking damage, there's no reason to heal up!The overall best build, for farming any zone for loot, is this:With this much STR, you can take out almost any enemy in two or fewer attacks, excepting boss enemies. Your high QCK gives your team of three dragons the advantage to get eight turns in before an enemy gets even one! (See what I mean about not taking damage?) The Rally isn't necessary, by the way, just helpful when fighting those bosses.(129 STR, 8 AGI, 13 VIT, 50 QCK, 5 INT, 5 DEF, 5 MND; Scratch, Eliminate, Rally, Berserker x3, Ambush x2, optional Shred)If you have a single level 25 dragon, and want to make mad exalt money or help out your flight in dominance, this is the primo build:This is for a single dragon, training up two unleveled dragons in the Mire only! It has just enough STR to defeat any non-boss enemy in the Mire in 4 Scratches, or a Scratch+Eliminate, or a Rallied Eliminate, with plenty of QCK to get as many turns as possible.
The stones are Rally, Eliminate, Sap, and Haste. How this build works is given in-depth(117 STR, 8 AGI, 25 VIT, 70 QCK, 5 INT, 5 DEF, 5 MND, Scratch, Rally, Eliminate, Berserker x3, Ambush x2, optional Haste and Sap)Some people prefer this build:Only a few enemies will require two Scratches and an Eliminate, and you have enough QCK to still get those eight turns. This is best used on two dragons, training a third unleveled dragon in the Kelp Beds.
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When you encounter a boss there, have your training dragons throw a Reflect on themselves, and they will take 0 damage from the bosses! Regardless, the Mire training build is faster, so I can't really recommend this build.(126 STR, 8 AGI, 6 VIT, 59 QCK, 5 INT, 5 DEF, 5 MND, Scratch, Shred, Eliminate, Reflect, Berserker x3, Ambush x2)There's an extra potential useful build, albeit for only one dragon:This is the mage/healer build. It's a total drag to use outside of the Golem Workshop, but if you put this dragon on your leftmost slot so it goes first, it can Rally one of your fighters. Suffice to say, you can use any element, so Enamor could be Drown or Disorient or whatever. Aid is a must, Contuse is a must, and of course Meditate (apologies for my silver one).(5 STR, 8 AGI, 13 VIT, 50 QCK, 129 INT, 5 DEF, 5 MND, Meditate, Contuse, Aid, Rally, Scholar x3, Ambush x2, optional third tier magic attack). It can be difficult to get started in the coliseum, with so many stats, so many stones, so many venues! If you know what you're doing, you certainly can, though!To start out, pick out three dragons you'd like to see get leveled up!
They need to be fed, named, adults. It's easier if they're all starting out at the same level!Go to the coliseum, and click Organize Party. Scroll through the list on the right and drag the three dragons you like over to the ovals on the left. The dragon in the oval to the far left will be on top, and go first! When you're done, hit Back.Now, click on the Abilities & Stats button. You can scroll through your three dragons with the arrows near the top of the pane. Do any have Meditate (a blue Pearlcatcher icon) or Anticipate (a grey Guardian icon)?
If so, you'll need to buy each of them an ability called Scratch, from the Auction House. It's quite cheap! You can see what these “battle stones” look like below!
Required Level: 1Once you've bought any Scratch battle stones you might need, go back to the Abilities & Stats pane, to the appropriate dragon(s). See the Scratch stone you bought? Click and drag it into the top square on the left, then hit Lock Stones at the bottom and then click the checkmark.
Now they're ready for battle!What you've just done is vital to fighters, since when your fighters grow in level, they can sometimes equip new battle stones, and you'll have to go back to that pane and equip them in the same way, albeit into different squares that will open up over time, which will glow yellow while you're dragging the right stone.Hit the button labeled Monster Battle, and pick the Training Fields. Click Abilities, then the Scratch icon, then an enemy. Scratch everything! You're now a successful fighter! When you level up, you can Fight On!
If you're still healthy, or go back to the Main Menu if you want to level up your stats.When in the Abilities & Stats pane, you may see a big yellow button over a dragon who has leveled up. This means that you can increase their stats by clicking the button. Each stat costs points, and you get only so many stat points per level, so they must be spent wisely - the point of the guide!You can bump up dragon stats without spending points by adding Might Fragments. What you can equip depends on the dragon's element - their eye color. Hover your mouse over any of these elemental Might Fragments to see which element each takes, and buy the correct ones for your dragons! Do keep in mind, however, that “Might Fragment” does not boost your stats very much at all, and should be avoided. Required Level: 10The last one, the Obsidian Hybrid Fragment, bumps up a dragon's STR just as much as an elemental Might Fragment, is quite cheap, but can only be equipped on Earth, Fire, Plague, and Shadow dragons, and only at level 10 or up!
So in a pinch, these can be handy!At some point, a Tincture of Dissolution will be super handy to use on your dragons, plus they only cost 25,500 treasure after a dominance discount! It resets all of a dragon's stats to their base of 5, so you don't have points automatically wasted in stats like AGI, INT, DEF, or MND. You can then spend those points on important stats!
It costs a lot to get a dragon from a hatchling to a seasoned warrior, and most of us don't start off with everything we need to get going!Every dragon will need to be equipped with Scratch, Eliminate, 3 elemental Might Fragments, 3 Berserkers, and 2 Ambushes, and most of these cost exorbitant amounts from the Auction House. One of the best ways to fund this addiction we have is to farm the coliseum. Even super low-leveled dragons can farm the coliseum, as Eliminate, Berserker, and Ambush all drop from very low-leveled areas, and while you try to get them as a lucky drop, you can still try daily to get one from, and.At the absolute minimum, you will need all your dragons with Scratch, and one with Eliminate, positioned in the final slot, to finish off enemies quickly. Once a dragon has Eliminate, your speed in the coliseum should be increased enough to let you properly farm for treasure.
A second Eliminate (to another dragon) is the next-best stone to add, followed by the Ambushes, then the final Eliminate. Most elemental Might Fragments and Berserkers are quite cheap.For your convenience, here is a simple chart of where the main stones are dropped, if you want to farm for the lucky drop. Keep in mind that they are quite rare to drop! Hoping for some tips and tricks to get the most out of your coliseum experience? Here's some common tips for those new at battling.
If one of your fighters has been defeated, but you can still win the fight, keep going. The defeated dragon will come back in the next match, with a moderate amount of health and their breath intact. If all of your fighters are on the brink of defeat, to avoid losing energy, try reloading the coliseum.
If you can do it before all the enemies get their turns, generally you will not lose your energy. Did a dragon get Contused by an enemy? Don't let that dragon use Eliminate until the Contuse debuff wears off, which you can see when the white icon above their head leaves. Contused dragons deal only three quarters as much damage as they normally do, so don't count their Scratches as part of the Scratch+Eliminate combo.
If one of your fighters misses an Eliminate and hasn't got enough breath for another, put them on Scratch duty, and the next dragon on Eliminate duty, until their breath is regained. Any enemy whose description in the says they require 2 Scratches only requires 1 Scratch if it's a crit, as crits do double damage. When starting a new team, elements can matter. If you want to farm in the Golem Workshop, or train dragons in the Kelp Beds, make your dragons Plague-element, as that will make them resist the most elemental attacks. If you want to train dragons in the Mire, use an Arcane-element dragon. I killed everything but the battle didn't end!The site's servers have 3 'ticks' during the day, when dragons become hungrier: 8 AM dragon-time, 4 PM, and 12 AM (well, the entire site goes down then).
If you end a battle at one of these ticks, the battle will just sit for a few seconds to a few minutes, depending on how busy the server is (such as Night of the Nocturne). Usually it will have given you your XP and any items won, if you want to just refresh the entire page, but usually it will come back on its own. Pressing Defend or anything won't make it happen any faster. If you try to up and load the coliseum during these ticks, it also won't load until the server is done making everyone hungry. centerimgguide, once you get past level 7, will assume that all enemies need one usage of Scratch, and one of Eliminate, AKA a Scratch+Eliminate combo, to be defeated.
Some enemies will require more Scratches; these enemies will be denoted with 'imgSTR #', meaning that until your STR reaches the given number, or is higher, you'll have to use 2 Scratches. Some enemies will require only an Eliminate to be defeated; these are denoted with imgor 'imgSTR #' when you can only one-shot them with a certain STR. This is why leveling with these stats and stones is the most efficient: almost every spawn of enemies will be defeated before your dragons get harmed.The other major benefit to this guide is the addition of priority lists: numbered lists indicating the most dangerous enemies in each zone, descending to the least-dangerous ones. If you defeat enemies in the order listed (depending on which appear, of course), you'll generally avoid taking damage for entire zones.
This is scaled by how easy they are to defeat, how much damage they do, how fast they will be compared to your dragons, and whether they are physical attackers or must use Meditate to gain breath, and which use Contuse (if enemies use Contuse, they also use Meditate). Enemies that have to use Meditate are marked with imgand those who will use Contuse are marked with imgmost important thing for having this guide work, though, is to bonly/b put points into the stats listed at each levelup, and to equip battle stones as soon as you can afford them. This ensures that you have the proper STR to defeat enemies in the right amount of hits - if you aren't at this point, staying in a previous zone is recommended, so the difficulty of enemies doesn't increase too much for you.-columnsimgFields/b/size/centerindentsize=4Don't worry about anything other than having three dragons with Scratch on your team. All you can do is use Scratch on the enemies, and back out when your dragons level up so that you can give them better stats. You'll want to stay here until level 5, where it's nice and easy and you still get XP./size/indentcolumnscolor=transparentxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx/colorlist=1.size=4Ruby Webwing imgSparrowmouse imgPocketmouse imgimgPocketmouse imgWebwing imgimgAlpha imgSparrowmouse imgMoth imgChipskink imgBrawler imgimgBruiser imgWebwing imgMoth imgimgCarpenter imgStag imgMith imgMith imgMouse imgPocket Mouse imgMith imgEmperor imglevel 2, make sure your dragons have b10 STR and 10 QCK/b.
If they have any points left over to spend, throw more into STR. iDo not put points into any other stat, even if you are able to. This uwill/u hurt your ability to deal damage later on./iAt level 3, bget their STR as high as you can push it/b. This should be somewhere between 16 (ie. Faes) and 21 (a Tinctured dragon).At level 4, bget their STR to 20/b (if they're already exceeded it, read on), and btheir QCK to 15/b or as close as you can manage (ie. Faes can only hit 14). If you have accomplished both, more STR is always welcome.At level 5, the first thing you want to do is badd an Elemental Might Fragment/b onto each dragon.
Once you have one of those slotted, bget their QCK to 15/b if it wasn't, then beverything else into STR/b. That'll be a STR between 27 and 30./size/columns/columns-columnsimgPath/b/size/centerindentsize=4This level is enough of a jump in difficulty that I recommend getting to level 5 in the Training Fields first. The monsters are a lot faster, and will generally take 3 or 5 Scratches to defeat. Make sure that if all three of your dragons are very low on health that you back out, then re-enter. You'll be here until your dragons tick over to level 7./size/indentcolumnscolor=transparentxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx/colorlist=1.size=4Clown Charger imgBasilisk imgimgBasilisk imgimgOwl imgPhytocat imgJanustrap imgStrangler imgCharger imgimgOwl imgMoth imgDryad imgimgimgEmperor imgStag imglevel 6, bget QCK to 20/b, and badd to STR as much as you can/b, which should be between 29 and 32.At level 7, badd an Eliminate/b to each dragon. As noted before, this is vital, so I hope you have already farmed the lower zones until you have enough money to buy at least one.
Then, badd another elemental Might Fragment/b to each dragon. After all of that, ball points go into STR/b. That'll put your dragons between 37 and 40 STR, and 20 QCK./size/columns/columns-columnsimgForest/b/size/centerindentsize=4You will be quite jazzed with Eliminate: it utterly changes the gameplay you've encountered so far. This guide, once you get past level 7, will assume that all enemies need one usage of Scratch, and one of Eliminate, AKA a Scratch+Eliminate combo, to be defeated. Some enemies will require more Scratches; these enemies will be denoted with ' STR #', meaning that until your STR reaches the given number, or is higher, you'll have to use 2 Scratches.
Some enemies will require only an Eliminate to be defeated; these are denoted with, or ' STR #' when you can only one-shot them with a certain STR. This is why leveling with these stats and stones is the most efficient: almost every spawn of enemies will be defeated before your dragons get harmed.The other major benefit to this guide is the addition of priority lists: numbered lists indicating the most dangerous enemies in each zone, descending to the least-dangerous ones. If you defeat enemies in the order listed (depending on which appear, of course), you'll generally avoid taking damage for entire zones. This is scaled by how easy they are to defeat, how much damage they do, how fast they will be compared to your dragons, and whether they are physical attackers or must use Meditate to gain breath, and which use Contuse (if enemies use Contuse, they also use Meditate).
Enemies that have to use Meditate are marked with, and those who will use Contuse are marked with.The most important thing for having this guide work, though, is to only put points into the stats listed at each levelup, and to equip battle stones as soon as you can afford them. This ensures that you have the proper STR to defeat enemies in the right amount of hits - if you aren't at this point, staying in a previous zone is recommended, so the difficulty of enemies doesn't increase too much for you. Don't worry about anything other than having three dragons with Scratch on your team. All you can do is use Scratch on the enemies, and back out when your dragons level up so that you can give them better stats. You'll want to stay here until level 5, where it's nice and easy and you still get XP.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. Ruby Webwing. Dark Sparrowmouse.
Frosted Pocketmouse. Ragepuff. Satin Pocketmouse.
Silky Webwing. Sweetpuff. Webwing Alpha. Yellow Sparrowmouse. Amaranth Moth. Bluelight Chipskink.
Ceanothus Brawler. Chipskink.
Mith Bruiser. Emerald Webwing. Leafy Moth.
Bumble. Coral Carpenter. Death's-Head Stag. Brown-Spotted Mith. Primrose Mith. Ember Mouse. Glowing Pocket Mouse.
Luna Mith. Crimson EmperorAt level 2, make sure your dragons have 10 STR and 10 QCK. If they have any points left over to spend, throw more into STR. Do not put points into any other stat, even if you are able to. This will hurt your ability to deal damage later on.At level 3, get their STR as high as you can push it. This should be somewhere between 16 (ie. Faes) and 21 (a Tinctured dragon).At level 4, get their STR to 20 (if they're already exceeded it, read on), and their QCK to 15 or as close as you can manage (ie.
Faes can only hit 14). If you have accomplished both, more STR is always welcome.At level 5, the first thing you want to do is add an Elemental Might Fragment onto each dragon. Once you have one of those slotted, get their QCK to 15 if it wasn't, then everything else into STR. That'll be a STR between 27 and 30. This level is enough of a jump in difficulty that I recommend getting to level 5 in the Training Fields first. The monsters are a lot faster, and will generally take 3 or 5 Scratches to defeat. Make sure that if all three of your dragons are very low on health that you back out, then re-enter.
You'll be here until your dragons tick over to level 7.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. Clown Charger. Grouse Basilisk. Basilisk.
Coral Basilisk. Cockatrice. Sakura Owl. Bamboo Phytocat. Greenroot Janustrap. Blooming Strangler. Bluefin Charger.
Strangler. Wildwood Owl. Leafy Moth. Autumn Dryad. Janustrap. Dryad.
Crimson Emperor. Death's-Head StagAt level 6, get QCK to 20, and add to STR as much as you can, which should be between 29 and 32.At level 7, add an Eliminate to each dragon.
As noted before, this is vital, so I hope you have already farmed the lower zones until you have enough money to buy at least one. Then, add another elemental Might Fragment to each dragon. After all of that, all points go into STR. That'll put your dragons between 37 and 40 STR, and 20 QCK. You will be quite jazzed with Eliminate: it utterly changes the gameplay you've encountered so far. Assuming you have three Ambushes, you are now able to sweep through enemies before taking any hits.
If not, keep working at it! Once you have them, you'll be able to level up significantly faster and even skip zones. You can stay here for just a level and move on.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
Greatshell. Peacock Scorpion. Iridescent Scaleback.
Fuiran. Nightsky Fuiran STR 50. Fan Scorpion. Scaleback STR 49. Shattered Serpent.
Storm Seeker. Shadow Serpent. Serthis Potionmaster, STR 49. Serthis Alchemist, STR 48. Crowned Bonepriest,.
Opheodrys Serthis. Carmine SerthisAt level 10, get your STR to 50, your QCK to 25, and everything else goes into STR. Only the foxes are somewhat quick, and plenty in this zone use Meditate, so if it pleases you I'd recommend staying here and forgetting the Forgotten Cave (unless you want the Swipp goods, but you can always come back later). A few enemies here have higher QCK than you, so after your initial Ambush turns, they'll get to hit you. They're your first priority. You'll be here until level 13 if you bother coming here at all.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
Emerald Jewel. Cursed Bat STR 57. Bramble Guardian. Runic Bat. Deepmine Aardvark STR 57. Peacevine Aardvark STR 57.
Blueband Duelist. Venomblade Assassin.
Citrine Jewel STR 60. Centaur Berserker. Swiftfoot Slayer. Corpse Cleaner. Parasitic Fungus. Crimson Reef Snail, STR 60. Ancient Fungus.
Blue Dragon Snail, STR 58. Dwarf Truffle, STR 57At level 12, get your STR to 60, and everything else into QCK.At level 13, add your third elemental might Fragment and get your dragons' QCK to 35. If you have any points left over, extra points to STR. By the time you're ready to leave this zone, you should have been able to scrounge up to have Ambushes on each dragon, and at least two Eliminates. It's only 2 levels at least!xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. Tengu, STR 66. Blacktalon Striker STR 67.
Gale Wolf. Hainu. Fungalhoof Qiriq. Tigerblood Foo.
Mantled Foo. Dream Eater. Red-Breasted Hainu.
Umbra Wolf STR 63. Baku STR 65. Raptorik Warrior, STR 67. Ethereal Trickster.
Trick-of-the-Light. Wandering Surge Priest. Carmine Serthis,. Opheodrys Serthis,At level 14, all points go into STR, so you'll have 68 or 69 STR along with your 35 QCK.At level 15, add your last Ambush to each dragon.
This will mean you are almost immune to being damaged. Push STR as high as you can, meaning 73 to 74. This zone is a little easier than it might look. Even though many enemies take an extra Scratch, half of them are Meditators, so they're far easier.
The bosses might be painful depending on your ability to have scored Ambushes & Eliminates. This zone has far too many physical attackers, so feel free to stay in Redrock Cove until level 16 when you can skip to the Arena. Now that you are able to get here, you can farm any festival's currency super fast. You'll only be here one level for training, however.
The bosses are not too nasty, as usual for low-level zone bosses.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. Double-Tailed Warcat. Charcoal Sprangyroo. Chimera. Sprangyroo. Boran Veteran. Spellwall Boran.
Warcat Protector. Longneck Interloper. Longneck Skirmisher. Celestial Antelope. Longneck Mender.
Longneck Magi. Goldenplains Poodle Mith.
Marshland Poodle Mith. Silver Springbok. Featherback Boar (boss). Undying Featherback (boss)At level 17, replace your Might Fragments with Berserkers.
It's not very expensive! Also, get your QCK to 50, with any extra points into STR, which will be 89 or 90.
A nice little zone for nice little leveling! Head in at level 17 once you've gotten your Berserkers put in, and you can Scratch+Eliminate all but the bosses. Feel free to stay a good while, or skip around to Boreal Wood or Rainsong Jungle.The bosses are Meditate users, so you may have luck defeating them, and they're super easy to farm. There's three options after visiting the Arena: here, Volcanic Vents, and Boreal Wood.
It's entirely up to you. Since you'll be in these three zones until level 19, you can switch around, too, but the Vents are definitely the easiest to start at.When fighting you'll find bossess rarely, the Overcharged Silverbeast and the Goldenbeast. Hit the monkey bosses with all your stored Eliminates, since they're so tough.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. King Parda STR 95. Deadwood Boar STR 95.
Barkback Boar STR 95. Proto Manticore STR 90.
Manticore Screamer STR 90. Ringlet Amphithere.
Ultramel Amphithere. Zalis. Paradise Zalis. Parda. Hippocampus. Clown Hippocampus.
Petal Jumper. Budwing Morpho, STR 90. Overcharged Silverbeast (boss). Goldenbeast (boss)At level 18, all points go into STR, leaving it at 94 to 95.At level 19, all points go into STR, leaving it at 99 to 100. There's three options after visiting the Arena: here, Volcanic Vents, and Rainsong Jungle. It's entirely up to you. Since you'll be in these three zones until level 19, you can switch around, too, but the Vents are definitely the easiest to start at.When fighting you'll find the boss Coarsefur Yeti on occasion.
It is not very strong, so use it to build back breath if need be.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. Elk. Maned Rasa. Permafrost Impaler STR 93.
Nochnyr STR 93. Poultrygeist. Snowfall Elk STR 91. Winter Wolf. Cloud Dancer.
Hoarfrost Mauler. Black Wolf.
Longneck Hunter. Squall Rasa. Shalebuck. Venerable Shalebuck. Longneck Wanderer, STR 93. Coarsefur Yeti (boss)At level 18, all points go into STR, leaving it at 94 to 95.At level 19, all points go into STR, leaving it at 99 to 100. This zone will keep you occupied for one or two levels, depending on how you feel.
At level 20, you can definitely head to Harpy's Roost.Watch out for the bosses, Crystalhide Jester and Hawksbill Goliath. Use all your breath on Eliminates on them.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. Arctic Hippalectryon. Crystalplate Stinger. Hippalectryon.
Sparkling Stinger. Chalcedony Snipper. Moonbeam Crayfish. Windcarve Fugitive STR 101. Almandine Sturgeon STR 104. Amber Gulper STR 104. Rhodochrosite Crane.
Apatite Fisher. Clearwater Oracle, STR 100.
Maren Warlock, STR 100. Stonewatch Prince, STR 101. Crystalhide Jester (boss). Hawksbill Goliath (boss)At level 20, get your STR as high as you can, which will be 104 or 105.At level 21, all points go into STR, bringing it to 109 or 110. This zone is pretty tough nowadays, but it is full of so many good things to farm for Swipp and Baldwin!
Regardless, make sure your dragons have at least STR 100 before entering, such as being level 19 and Tinctured, or level 20. This zone is great to come in as soon as your dragons hit level 21, whether they have 109 STR or 110. You can certainly stay here extra levels, too.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. Longneck Medium, STR 112.
Carrioncorn. Nightmare. Pronghorn Stomper. Wendigo.
Infestation Hound. Wraith Hound STR 111. Greybeak Reaper. Shatterbone Vulture. Tatterwing Carcass. Tengu Caller STR 112.
Aer Phantom. Lux Spectre.
Otherworldly Aura. Somber Spirit.
Longneck Scholar, STR 112. Disoriented Spirit (boss).
Malevolent Spirit (boss)At level 22, all points go into STR, bringing it to 114 or 115.At level 23, all points go into STR, bringing it to 119 or 120. Only two enemies here are faster than you, but they're both Meditate-users. The boss Wartoads are not too tough for their size, given a full team of dragons. Just make sure that your dragons' STR is at least 110 when visiting the Mire.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. Salve Kamaitachi.
Wetland Unicorn. Scythe Kamaitachi STR 111. Venomous Toridae STR 113. Poisonous Toridae STR 113.
Shellion. Sickle Kamaitachi.
Southmarsh Podid STR 111. Mistwatch Shellion. Blackwing Croaker. Common Podid, STR 111. Mossy Cerdae, STR 115. Brilliant Psywurm, STR 115.
Heartred Croaker. Psywurm. Wartoad (boss). Molten Wartoad (boss)At level 22, all points go into STR, bringing it to 114 or 115.At level 23, all points go into STR, bringing it to 119 or 120. While these enemies are fast, a lot of them use Meditate.
If you're here at 25, with QCK 59 dragons, only the Eels will be faster, though. centerimgto save up for those dreadfully expensive Ambushes, Tinctures, Eliminates, etc.? Or just wanting to become rich? There's plenty of methods, of course, but many are based off of, or at least greatly enhanced by, farming in the coliseum, at any venue.You'll want to keep up to date on what items are used by url=and Baldwin/url, so that you know what to keep around to sell for high prices or use yourself. Anything not in this list, from your Materials or Other hoard tabs, can be autosold for quick bucks.Anything from the Apparel, Familiars, Battle Items, or Skins tabs should be sold on the Auction House if you're not keeping them. The same goes for all those Swipp and Baldwin items.You should be able to feed your dragons easily on what you gather and with some of your coliseum drops, but any other Food items can be sold on the Auction House, for much higher than they go for in the Items For Sale forum!
Put large quantities up for sale for just a day, for treasure, such as in 99x, 50x, and 33x stacks. Those sell fairly fast! Meat will sell for a good 50 treasure per point, so for instance a 99x stack of 4-point meat can be sold for 19,800 treasure. Plants are not in favor, but can go for 35 or 40 treasure a point. Insects and seafood usually go for 60 to 75 treasure per point!Once you have some level 25 dragons, you can multitask - farming food from the high-end venues, while leveling dragons for exalting!-centerimgcan serve your flight, your deity, iand/i your coffers all at the same time. The very basic idea is to take dragons that you don't want, level them up, and exalt them for some straight-up deity treasure. When just going for maximum profit at maximum speed, don't buy dragons above 9,000 treasure that you are going to exalt, and train them up to level 6 before exalting.
If you can get dragons cheap enough, ie. Under 8,000 treasure, only level them up to 5.The simplest way is to use the above-mentioned 126 STR build on two level 25 dragons, and add an untrained dragon to your team. Make sure both of your 'trainer' dragons have a Reflect battle stone, and go into the Kelp Beds. You'll defeat enemies normally, excepting the Mantarune and Wave Sweeper bosses. When you see those, have your trainers use Reflect on themselves, and re-apply it whenever it wears off.
Don't bother using Eliminate, just Scratch and Reflect. Your trainers will take no damage, and you can continue your streak. This will be fairly slow, however, compared to the next:The ultimate method is the 117 STR double-fodder Mire build. You only need one level 25 dragon for this, which is at least a boon. It's a little complicated, but works out to be the fastest.
If you have an Arcane dragon, it's even easier, as they can take hits better than other elements in the Mire.indentWith 117 STR, your dragon can defeat any enemy, minus the Wartoads, in 4 Scratches. It takes 6 Scratches to have enough breath to use Eliminate, so in the first spawn you will be capable of using Eliminate. Just make sure that your first spawn is not comprised of a Wartoad, or of 3 physical attackers (Toridae, Shellions, Scythe and Sickle Kamaitachi). You should be able to get to speed without being defeated.Once your breath is up, for the next batches of enemies, have your trainer use Rally on itself on the first turn, then Eliminate the enemies. Only Mossy Cerdae and Brilliant Psywurms require a Scratch+Eliminate combo; therefore, if a spawn is entirely these, you don't need to use Rally.You'll want to target Scythe Kamaitachi and Venomous Toridae first, followed by Salve Kamaitachi and Wetland Unicorns due to their Contuse. After that, just go by physical attackers followed by magical attackers. If your dragon is not Arcane-element, you'll want to be aware of url=elemental weaknesses/url, and target those specific magic users before others.Keep in mind that you will not be gaining an XP chain bonus, so there's no harm in refreshing the coliseum to get a better spawn, or to restart, especially since it only takes one spawn of enemies to regain your breath.
Wartoads are a big reason to restart, in fact. Unless you are leveling up dragons far higher than mere exalt fodder, so they can take more hits from the Wartoad, you'll not be able to handle them. If a fodder has, and lives long enough to use, Contuse, then use it as much as you can. This is where having Haste and Sap on your trainer can come in handy. Sap restores a small amount of HP on use, using up your practically infinite stores of breath, and Haste makes you quicker for a few turns. A combination of all of these can help you defeat Wartoads with, really, just a single dragon./indentAs a final note, if you are training up dragons in the Mire, but at least one is going to be a keeper (or will be sold), put an Ambush on and put that dragon in the first, left-most slot on your team.
Then that dragon will eat the first-turn bug, and let your trainer get even more turns in.-centerimgyou've Tinctured your dragon and want to get it up to speed? Here's a chart that lists the stats you'll want, with and without appropriate augment stones. Only Tinctured dragons can reach these stats, mind you, until level 24 or 25! Trying to save up for those dreadfully expensive Ambushes, Tinctures, Eliminates, etc.? Or just wanting to become rich? There's plenty of methods, of course, but many are based off of, or at least greatly enhanced by, farming in the coliseum, at any venue.You'll want to keep up to date on what items are used by, so that you know what to keep around to sell for high prices or use yourself.
Anything not in this list, from your Materials or Other hoard tabs, can be autosold for quick bucks.Anything from the Apparel, Familiars, Battle Items, or Skins tabs should be sold on the Auction House if you're not keeping them. The same goes for all those Swipp and Baldwin items.You should be able to feed your dragons easily on what you gather and with some of your coliseum drops, but any other Food items can be sold on the Auction House, for much higher than they go for in the Items For Sale forum! Put large quantities up for sale for just a day, for treasure, such as in 99x, 50x, and 33x stacks.
Those sell fairly fast! Meat will sell for a good 50 treasure per point, so for instance a 99x stack of 4-point meat can be sold for 19,800 treasure. Plants are not in favor, but can go for 35 or 40 treasure a point. Insects and seafood usually go for 60 to 75 treasure per point!Once you have some level 25 dragons, you can multitask - farming food from the high-end venues, while leveling dragons for exalting! You can serve your flight, your deity, and your coffers all at the same time. The very basic idea is to take dragons that you don't want, level them up, and exalt them for some straight-up deity treasure. When just going for maximum profit at maximum speed, don't buy dragons above 9,000 treasure that you are going to exalt, and train them up to level 6 before exalting.
If you can get dragons cheap enough, ie. Under 8,000 treasure, only level them up to 5.The simplest way is to use the above-mentioned 126 STR build on two level 25 dragons, and add an untrained dragon to your team. Make sure both of your 'trainer' dragons have a Reflect battle stone, and go into the Kelp Beds.
You'll defeat enemies normally, excepting the Mantarune and Wave Sweeper bosses. When you see those, have your trainers use Reflect on themselves, and re-apply it whenever it wears off. Don't bother using Eliminate, just Scratch and Reflect. Your trainers will take no damage, and you can continue your streak. This will be fairly slow, however, compared to the next:The ultimate method is the 117 STR double-fodder Mire build.
You only need one level 25 dragon for this, which is at least a boon. It's a little complicated, but works out to be the fastest.
If you have an Arcane dragon, it's even easier, as they can take hits better than other elements in the Mire. With 117 STR, your dragon can defeat any enemy, minus the Wartoads, in 4 Scratches. It takes 6 Scratches to have enough breath to use Eliminate, so in the first spawn you will be capable of using Eliminate. Just make sure that your first spawn is not comprised of a Wartoad, or of 3 physical attackers (Toridae, Shellions, Scythe and Sickle Kamaitachi).
You should be able to get to speed without being defeated.Once your breath is up, for the next batches of enemies, have your trainer use Rally on itself on the first turn, then Eliminate the enemies. Only Mossy Cerdae and Brilliant Psywurms require a Scratch+Eliminate combo; therefore, if a spawn is entirely these, you don't need to use Rally.You'll want to target Scythe Kamaitachi and Venomous Toridae first, followed by Salve Kamaitachi and Wetland Unicorns due to their Contuse. After that, just go by physical attackers followed by magical attackers. If your dragon is not Arcane-element, you'll want to be aware of, and target those specific magic users before others.Keep in mind that you will not be gaining an XP chain bonus, so there's no harm in refreshing the coliseum to get a better spawn, or to restart, especially since it only takes one spawn of enemies to regain your breath. Wartoads are a big reason to restart, in fact. Unless you are leveling up dragons far higher than mere exalt fodder, so they can take more hits from the Wartoad, you'll not be able to handle them. If a fodder has, and lives long enough to use, Contuse, then use it as much as you can.
This is where having Haste and Sap on your trainer can come in handy. Sap restores a small amount of HP on use, using up your practically infinite stores of breath, and Haste makes you quicker for a few turns. A combination of all of these can help you defeat Wartoads with, really, just a single dragon.As a final note, if you are training up dragons in the Mire, but at least one is going to be a keeper (or will be sold), put an Ambush on and put that dragon in the first, left-most slot on your team. Then that dragon will eat the first-turn bug, and let your trainer get even more turns in. So you've Tinctured your dragon and want to get it up to speed? Here's a chart that lists the stats you'll want, with and without appropriate augment stones.
Only Tinctured dragons can reach these stats, mind you, until level 24 or 25! @EDIT: Deleted most of post because I hadn't twigged this was to make a grinding team not an exalt levelling team! You can get away with low speed for a full team.Oh - one thing you really need to edit - Psywurms do do damage with Enfeeble. It just doesn't show up on the damage bar until after the fight - you can end up with a dead dragon that looks like it's still alive, but can't compete.
I generally kill them before Salve Kamaitachi, because Kamaitachi have a significant chance of using Heal rather than an attack. @EDIT: Deleted most of post because I hadn't twigged this was to make a grinding team not an exalt levelling team! You can get away with low speed for a full team.Oh - one thing you really need to edit - Psywurms do do damage with Enfeeble. It just doesn't show up on the damage bar until after the fight - you can end up with a dead dragon that looks like it's still alive, but can't compete.
I generally kill them before Salve Kamaitachi, because Kamaitachi have a significant chance of using Heal rather than an attack. @ The wildclaws I just trained up (Riff, Riot, and Sway) all only have 40 quick! (They all have 114 str.) It didn't make as big of a difference as I thought it would - only a couple of casters got to go before them, really, and they just meditated. I'm not sure they'd be great for leveling up a third dragon in The Mire (I will test that at some point soon), but they are great for farming. And once berserkers work, they'll have 129 str (enough to one-shot everything in the Roost) and 49 quick (definitely good enough for Mire), and will be great all-around dragons. @ The wildclaws I just trained up (Riff, Riot, and Sway) all only have 40 quick! (They all have 114 str.) It didn't make as big of a difference as I thought it would - only a couple of casters got to go before them, really, and they just meditated.
I'm not sure they'd be great for leveling up a third dragon in The Mire (I will test that at some point soon), but they are great for farming. And once berserkers work, they'll have 129 str (enough to one-shot everything in the Roost) and 49 quick (definitely good enough for Mire), and will be great all-around dragons.
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